Xiaolongbao: Shanghai's Soup Dumpling Masterpiece
Xiaolongbao are the undisputed icons of Shanghai cuisine. Each delicate dumpling holds a secret: a spoonful of rich, savory broth that bursts forth with the first bite.
By Li WeiUpdated
What Makes Xiaolongbao Special
Xiaolongbao (small steamer buns) are steamed dumplings traditionally filled with pork and a rich aspic that melts into hot broth during cooking. As Wikipedia puts it, xiaolongbao are "a type of Chinese tangbao, traditionally prepared in a xiaolong, a small bamboo steaming basket." The wrapper is thin but strong enough to hold the soup without breaking. Each dumpling is traditionally folded with at least 18 pleats.
How to Eat Xiaolongbao
- Pick it up gently with chopsticks at the topknot.
- Dip it in black vinegar with ginger slivers.
- Place it on your spoon and poke a small hole to release steam.
- Sip the broth from the spoon enjoying the pure essence.
- Eat the dumpling with more vinegar. Never bite it whole!
The Best Xiaolongbao in Shanghai
Jia Jia Tang Bao is the legend: crab roe xiaolongbao that locals queue an hour for. Din Tai Fung brings Taiwanese precision with exactly 18 folds per dumpling. Nanxiang Steamed Bun Restaurant in the City God Temple is the historic original, serving since 1900.
Where Xiaolongbao Came From
Xiaolongbao were born in the 1870s in Nanxiang, a market town on Shanghai's western edge, where vendor Huang Mingxian thickened the traditional filling with aspic so that a spoonful of broth would form inside each bun as it steamed. The "Nanxiang steamed bun" became so famous that imitators set up stalls inside the Old City's City God Temple bazaar, and the dumpling spread from there across China and the world. The version eaten in Shanghai today is still closer to that original: a lighter, sweeter pork filling and a thinner, more delicate skin than the Cantonese dim-sum style found elsewhere.
Variations Worth Ordering
Once you have tried the classic pork, work through the local favourites. Crab roe (zhuhuang) adds a rich, briny sweetness and is at its best during autumn hairy-crab season. Mushroom (xianggu) offers an earthy, lighter bite, while shrimp and the seasonal crayfish (xiaolongxia) fillings have become summer staples. Most shops serve six dumplings to a bamboo basket โ a filling snack on its own, or the start of a larger spread alongside wonton soup and scallion pancakes.
What It Costs and When to Go
A basket of xiaolongbao runs roughly RMB 20โ45 at a local shop and noticeably more at historic names like Nanxiang or the worldwide Din Tai Fung. Fillings, not the bun itself, drive the price: plain pork is cheapest, crab roe the priciest. Locals eat them at any hour, but the freshest, test-your-nerves queues form around the midday and early-evening peaks โ go ten minutes before those rushes to beat the wait.